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Walk: Footloose and Bristol bound

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 07:28 AM PST

Andrew Swift explores some of Bristol's hidden corners, including the site of one of England's largest castles, ruined churches, the remnants of the medieval city walls and two buildings with unexpected links to Bath

As the quickest and easiest way to get to Bristol is by train, the walk starts at Temple Meads. After going through the barriers, instead of turning left through the main exit, carry on to emerge in the original station, where cars now park between the platforms. Following signs for the city centre, cross a car park and continue past a row of shops. Bear left along Temple Back East and cross the dual carriageway to continue along Temple Back. Take the first left along Temple Rose Street and after 75m turn right through gates to follow a tree-lined path towards the shell of Temple Church, founded by the Knights Templar, and destroyed by bombing, like so much of Bristol, in 1940. If you look at its leaning tower, you will see that the top section is at a different angle to the lower stages, the result of an attempt to compensate for subsidence during construction. Go through the gates at the end and carry on to emerge amid a cluster of old buildings. Turn right along the main road, continue across Counterslip and take the next right along Bath Street. After 100m, just before the Premier Inn, turn left along an alleyway to Castle Bridge.

As you cross the bridge, the old George's Brewery – taken over by Courage before closing in 2000 – is on your right. On the far bank, turn right, then left uphill, crossing a cycle path before turning left up steps to a garden with a water feature aligned on St Peter's Church.

At the top of the steps, look back to survey the site of Bristol Castle, once one of the largest in England. After its demolition in the 17th century, the area was redeveloped to become the hub of Bristol's commercial district, before being reduced to a bombsite in 1940. What remained was cleared after the war to create Castle Park, uncovering fragments of the castle hidden for three centuries.

Head towards St Peter's and bear left to walk through a physic garden along its south side. The area to the west of the church lay within the old city walls and for over a thousand years was one of the busiest and most historic parts of Bristol.

Castle Street before the Second World War

Carry on, following a tree-lined path down to the river, with the tower of another ruined church, St Mary le Port, to your right. Carry on to the traffic lights, cross to St Nicholas Church, bombed but restored and reopened for worship in December 2018. Head past it and turn right up St Nicholas Steps.
Continue up All Saints Lane, turn left through the covered arcade and, partway along, turn right into the Exchange Hall. This building, whose central court was originally open to the sky, was designed by John Wood the elder (of Bath) as a place for Bristol's merchants to transact business. Head for a doorway on the far side which leads through an ornate lobby to Corn Street.

As you leave the Exchange, look up to admire Wood's façade and a clock showing local time as well as GMT. The Harbour Hotel opposite was built in 1857 as a bank on the site of a coaching inn called The Bush, featured in Dickens' The Pickwick Papers.

Turn right past All Saints Church to the crossroads at the heart of the old city. The High Cross that stood here was cleared away in 1733 and later re-erected at Stourhead in Wiltshire.

The Merchant Taylors' Hall

Turn left down Broad Street, past the old Council House and Guildhall, and, just past Horts, turn right through an archway into Taylors Court, a hidden but neglected gem. A lavishly decorated shell hood over the entrance to the Merchant Tailors' Hall, 18th-century lead drainpipes, St John's churchyard and the 17th-century Court House are among the treasures of this forgotten corner.

Back in Broad Street, carry on past the Art Nouveau facade of Everard's Print Works to St John's church, the tower of which runs through the only surviving gate into the old city. Turn left before the gate to follow the line of the city walls, and at the end carry straight on through a low-beamed archway with a sign for the Centrespace Gallery. After passing under a bridge, look to the right for stones marking the boundaries of St Leonard's and St Stephen's parishes. Emerging in Corn Street, carry on, still following the line of the walls, along St Nicholas Street. Old India restaurant, on your left, was built in 1903 as a Stock Exchange, while Revolution, further along on the right, opened in 1873 as a fish market. After passing a carved elephant and a veiled lady on the left, turn right, looking out for the metal fish above Revolution's side entrance.

At the bottom of the steps, cross and turn left, and at the end turn right along Welsh Back. Take the third right along Little King Street past the most striking example of the architectural style known as Bristol Byzantine. Built in 1869 as a granary, the building later became a legendary music venue and is now a branch of Loch Fyne. Turn right again to find, on the next corner, one of Bristol's most celebrated buildings, the Llandoger Trow.

Turn left along King Street, past almshouses, pubs, converted warehouses and the newly revamped Old Vic. After passing the Cathay Restaurant (Bristol's first library) on the right, look for the curious plaque on the Merchant Venturers' Almshouses, before turning left and heading to the left of Graze to continue along the west side of Queen Square.

The Granary

At the end, turn right and then left to The Shakespeare pub, built by John Strahan in 1725 as a townhouse for John Hobbs, a wealthy merchant responsible for developing much of this area. The birds carved in its pediment are hobbies, a type of falcon, and a pun on Hobbs's name. Hobbs also employed Strahan to develop the Kingsmead Square area in Bath, and was instrumental in making the river between the two cities navigable, facilitating the shipment of Bath stone to Bristol.

Turn left along the Grove, passing the Hole in the Wall pub – claimed to have inspired the Spyglass in Treasure Island – and, after crossing a bridge, turn left along a harbourside walkway and follow it as it bears right between former warehouses. At the end, look across at a wall containing fragments of medieval arches, before turning left. When the road curves right, head past a barrier and an Archimedes screw to continue along a covered walkway beside the harbour. Turn right up steps past an armillary sphere and head to the right of St Thomas's church where a plaque commemorates the Seven Stars' links to the abolitionist Thomas Clarkson. Turn left at the end, cross the main road and head along Counterslip. Cross at the pedestrian lights and take the second right along Temple Back, crossing the lights at the end to return to Temple Meads.

More walks in Bristol, including the harbourside, city centre, and Clifton, can be found in Andrew Swift's Walks from Bristol's Severn Beach Line, published by Akeman Press.

Featured image: Everard's Print Works

The post Walk: Footloose and Bristol bound appeared first on The Bath Magazine.

Review: Restaurant Hywel Jones

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 07:10 AM PST

The dishes on haute cuisine menus have a seductive, musical vibe – some of them, like 'verjus butter' or 'melon gazpacho' are driven by the foreign words, which add a rarified, sexy quality to your pre-perception of a dish. Others earn their place through clever word combinations such as 'wet almonds' or 'sea vegetables'. Others thrive off the cool names of the ingredients like 'violet artichoke' or 'grelot onion'. The naming of dishes sets you up for the gastronomic ride. It's the best sort of spin, frankly.

In the case of Restaurant Hywel Jones there is no spin. A brave assertion at the beginning of a review, you might suggest. But I have to describe the experience of my meal there and I'm banking on the linguistic refinement of the dishes to help me, so you can taste them metaphorically, as it were.

Lucknam Park, the home of Restaurant Hywel Jones, is a Palladian mansion dating from 1720, now run as a country house hotel. Set in 500 acres of listed parkland and gardens, there is a luxurious spa with saunas and hydrothermal pools, an equestrian centre, a cookery school and a brasserie. The restaurant, led by head chef Hywel Jones, has had a Michelin star since 2006, and in February 2017, after Hywel retained his Michelin star for the 12th consecutive year, it was relaunched as Restaurant Hywel Jones.

The restaurant operates independently from the other facilities at Lucknam Park, but if you visit, you will be drawn firmly into the brand. Turn off Doncombe Lane and ride majestically down the mile-long drive, framed by beech trees. (You can also arrive by helicopter, but you'll need to give 24 hours notice).

We were shown first into the grand drawing room, with high ceilings and elaborate, weighty architraving, a Downton Abbey-esque interior and a crackling open fire. It was apéritif and canapé time. I chose a dry martini and the driver had a raspberry spritzer. This was made with raspberry infusion syrup, cloudy apple juice, lime juice and soda water – the hit of the raspberry fizz matched up to any alcoholic cocktail. The canapés were knock-you-down-amazing: goat's cheese cones; round fritters with mozzarella and chilli jam; and dill rice crackers with smoked cod.

Escorted to the dining room (once the billiard room where the mansion's inhabitants used to hide under the billiard table during wartime air raids) we were presented with a series of dilemmas: à la carte or tasting menu? Three courses or seven? Vegetarian or not? It was the roast violet artichoke (course two) that swung it for me; the vegetarian tasting menu had spun me in. Rob chose the seasonal tasting menu. We were recommended an Argentinian Malbec as a good accompaniment. As a post canapé, pre-prestarter I was served cauliflower mousse with mushrooms – which was divinely smooth and made me go home and seek out cauliflower recipes – and Rob had Scotch quail's eggs. These were both served with nutty wholemeal bread and miniature white baguettes, which had shell-like bread horns in a twirly flourish at each end.

Course one for both of us was heritage beetroot and buffalo ricotta tart, a miniature work of art decorated with slender slices of beetroot and radish. Then came roast violet artichoke with melted leeks, hazelnut and Wiltshire truffle pesto (yowee), followed by miso and ginger glazed hispi cabbage (a sweet green cabbage) with plum chutney and crispy marinated tofu. The baked potato gnocchi with heritage carrots, yogurt and cumin granola was a stand-out highlight with the gnocchi and granola a refreshing alliterative combination. For laps two to four Rob sampled cured duck liver with salted almond caramel and spiced apple with brioche; poached Dover sole with shellfish and verjus butter, celeriac and sea vegetables; and roast Bwlch Farm venison with miso and ginger roast hispi.

The cheese course brought a piled-high trolley, from which we chose five to share, with a strong French emphasis, all served with truffle honey and quince jelly (drooling compulsory). Our pre-dessert was a mini cylinder of sorbet on a stick enclosed in a coat of white chocolate, with a sprinkling of lemon sherbet at the base of the bowl (soooo nice). Dessert brought me a vanilla crème brulée with Agen prunes and bitter orange marmalade doughnut (knock your socks off) and Rob butter-roast pear with buttermilk sorbet and walnut wafers.

This may sound a rich combination of ingredients and a dizzying host of dishes but each one was a few miniature bites of divinity and the meal as a whole didn't feel at all de trop. And the flavours so lived up to their musical names.

Both the vegetarian and the seasonal tasting menus are £110

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, Chippenham. Tel: 01225 742777, visit: lucknampark.co.uk

The post Review: Restaurant </br> Hywel Jones appeared first on The Bath Magazine.